eduardo_frances posted a reply:
IIf you are going to buy a studio strobe you may want to buy also lightmeter, in the studio you may want to have one of this fellas since they will give you accurate readings and save you time from chimping, after all you are used to the output power of your little strobes so the guesstimation won't be the same. the Sekonic L308s is a great starter lightmeter unit.
Studio strobes are recommended if you are shooting for long periods of time -they are fan cooled your hotshoe strobes aren't and heat is their bane-, if you need more DOF -product shots are one area that require this trait or macro shots too (not necessarily a rule though)- they aren't much portable though but you can mix your studio lights with your little strobes. As their name implies studio strobes are made to be used at a studio and they aren't quite portable AB have the advantage of being light, but not as light as say a Vivitar 285HV or Canon EX speedlite or whatever brand hot shoe strobe, if you are thinking of a portable power unit for studio units, many people prefer the innovatronix explorer 1200 :) www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-7883-7908
Now which one small hot shoe strobes or studio strobes? that depend on your needs, IMHO there are horses for courses.
Continuous lighting mixed with strobes can lead to nasty WB mix problems and mixed K temperature isn't easily fixable -if it is depending on the case-
Asa recommendation also if you are going to buy studio strobes, buy extra flash and modeling light bulbs, you won't be happy to wait two weeks or have to spend on uber fast shipping rates if you need one in an emergency.
As for how to fire them Most monolights come with an optical Slave so no worries in that dept.
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